Brakes

Brake pedal position

Standard pedal position is about 117 mm from the top of the pedal to the top of the footboard. It rarely needs adjustment, but always reset it if the push-rod locknut has been loosened.

1. 1

   Loosen the push-rod locknut and turn the push rod by its hex head to set the pedal height.

2. 2

   A push-rod length of 370 ± 1.5 mm puts the pedal within the standard range.

   If the length cannot be set by turning the clevis, the pedal may be bent or wrongly fitted.

3. 3

   Tighten the rear master-cylinder push-rod locknut.

   Torque17 N·m

Front brake pad replacement

The front caliper comes off with the hose still attached, so the system stays closed.

1. 1

   Lightly loosen the brake pad pin.

2. 2

   Remove the caliper mounting bolts (leave the hose connected) and take the caliper off.

3. 3

   Remove the pad-spring bolts and pad spring, then the pad pin and pads.

4. 4

   Push the caliper pistons fully back by hand.

5. 5

   Fit the new pads and pad pin; tighten the pad pin.

   Torque15 N·m
6. 6

   Fit the pad spring and bolts; tighten the spring bolts.

   Torque2.9 N·m

Rear brake pad replacement

1. 1

   Remove the rear caliper with the hose attached.

2. 2

   Remove the snap pin and pad pin; take out the jaw-side pad, then the piston-side pad.

3. 3

   Clean the new pads with high-flash-point solvent before fitting.

4. 4

   Push the caliper pistons fully back by hand, fit the pads and be sure to refit the snap pin.

Caliper removal & installation

1. 1

   Loosen the banjo bolt at the hose end, then nip it up again; undo the caliper mounting bolts and take the caliper off.

2. 2

   Unscrew the banjo bolt and remove the hose from the caliper.

3. 3

   On refitting, use new washers each side of the hose fitting; tighten the front caliper mounting bolts to 25 N·m (rear 34 N·m) and the banjo bolt to 25 N·m.

4. 4

   Check fluid level, bleed the brake line, then check for good braking, no drag and no leaks.

Front master cylinder

1. 1

   Disconnect the front brake-light switch; draw the fluid out of the reservoir.

2. 2

   Remove the banjo bolt to disconnect the hose, then the clamp bolts; lift off the master cylinder as an assembly with reservoir, lever and switch.

3. 3

   On refitting, align the master-cylinder mating face with the punch mark on the handlebar; tighten the upper clamp bolt first, then the lower (a gap remains at the lower clamp).

   Torque8.8 N·m
4. 4

   Use new washers each side of the hose fitting and tighten the banjo bolt.

   Torque25 N·m
5. 5

   Refill, bleed the line, and check braking / drag / leaks.

Disc removal & installation

1. 1

   Remove the wheel (see Wheels / Tires chapter) and unscrew the disc mounting bolts.

2. 2

   Refit the disc with its marked side facing out; apply non-permanent locking agent to the disc-bolt threads and tighten.

   Torque27 N·m

Brake line bleeding

Air in the line makes the lever/pedal feel spongy and cuts braking power. The front procedure is shown; the rear is almost the same (the rear caliper has two bleed valves — bleed both).

1. 1

   Remove the reservoir cap and top up with fresh fluid to the upper level line.

2. 2

   With the cap off, slowly pump the lever until no air bubbles rise from the holes in the bottom of the reservoir; refit the cap.

3. 3

   Remove the rubber cap from the caliper bleed valve and attach a clear hose into a container.

4. 4

   Bleed: pump the lever until hard and hold it; quickly open and close the bleed valve; release the lever. Repeat until no more air comes out.

   ▲ Caution

   Check the reservoir level often and keep topping up — if it empties during bleeding, air re-enters and you must start over.

5. 5

   Tap the hose lightly from caliper to reservoir for more complete bleeding.

6. 6

   Remove the hose; tighten the bleed valve (7.8 N·m) and the reservoir cap screws (1.5 N·m). Repeat for the other caliper(s).

7. 7

   Check fluid level, then check for good braking, no drag and no leaks.